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Mid-summer optimism


Well here we are in mid-summer again, sun streaming through the windows and memories of shivering in arctic bothies far away…sound familiar? Anyway, thanks to those of you that got in touch following my last post. It now looks like I may well have a companion for the next attempt on the Cape Wrath Trail this winter. So, at last there may be a few more things to post about on this blog, and fewer tumbleweeds blowing through the place.

It is looking like the winter trip will start from Strathcarron and head northwards to the cape. I’m intending to do the Strathcarron to Sourlies section some time in October, walking South. That way if I actually reach the cape this time, I can definitively say I’ve done the whole thing. Not quite in one go, but as I’m realising, to finish this route at all is a considerable achievement. To do most of it in mid-winter is slightly crazy.

So the inordinate amount of planning starts again, checking maps, train timetables, grid references and distances. While all this goes on I’ve been getting some inspiration from Roger Boston’s website. A veteran of The Great Outdoors Challenge which covers much of the same territory as the Cape Wrath Trail, this makes for fascinating reading with some great photos. Cracking stuff.

I’ve been doing a lot of thinking since I had to abort my attempt last Christmas to complete the Cape Wrath Trail. Was it too ambitious to attempt it at that time of year?  Should I just settle for doing it in summer? Should I give up altogether? Whilst up in Knoydart last week, surrounded by that wildest of country I was reminded of why I had attempted it all in the first place. So I’ve decided to give it another go this winter. Doing it at that time of year was always part of the challenge for me, and last year’s experience (and my current progress towards the Mountain Leader qualification) have taught me an immense amount, including how to survive -15 degree temperatures and 120mph winds. I’ll be starting in Strathcarron this time round (having done the rest in the interim) and this time I’ve decided to try and raise some funds for a brilliant charity I once had the priviledge of working for called Vitalise, having been completely inspired by the incredible fundraising feats of John Dunbavin. So the mission is well and truly back on. If anybody fancies joining me then drop me a line at iain[dot]harper[at]gmail[dot]com - it’ll be a trip to remember that’s for sure.

I’ve been doing a lot of thinking since I had to abort my attempt last Christmas to complete the Cape Wrath Trail. Was it too ambitious to attempt it at that time of year?  Should I just settle for doing it in summer? Should I give up altogether?

Whilst up in Knoydart last week, surrounded by that wildest of country I was reminded of why I had attempted it all in the first place.

So I’ve decided to give it another go this winter. Doing it at that time of year was always part of the challenge for me, and last year’s experience (and my current progress towards the Mountain Leader qualification) have taught me an immense amount, including how to survive -15 degree temperatures and 120mph winds.

I’ll be starting in Strathcarron this time round (having done the rest in the interim) and this time I’ve decided to try and raise some funds for a brilliant charity I once had the priviledge of working for called Vitalise, having been completely inspired by the incredible fundraising feats of John Dunbavin.

So the mission is well and truly back on. If anybody fancies joining me then drop me a line at iain[dot]harper[at]gmail[dot]com - it’ll be a trip to remember that’s for sure.

From the Southern Downs to the Northern Mountains

South Downs WayLast weekend I finally completed the last leg of the South Downs Way, arriving in torrential rain and wind through a non-descript housing estate outside Winchester to bemused looks from the throngs of Sunday shoppers. (the South Downs Way’s ending must rival the West Highland Way’s in terms of anti-climax).

In contrast to my Cape Wrath expedition, this path has been spread over a couple of years. Doing a Long Distance Path in one go is a real treat, but the bite size approach has been just as rewarding.

The South Downs Way has also been a path that I’ve consistently underestimated, the rolling chalk tracks reminding me time and time again that hills demand absolute respect wherever they are. Alongside golden dappled sunshine outside Petersfield, I’ve contended with hail the size of a baby’s fist and fought along the Seven Sisters into a Force Nine gale.

The landscape may seem benign with civilisation close at hand, but in thick mist on the downs outside Shoreham-By-Sea it felt ethereal and totally isolated.

As I straggled through the outskirts of Winchester, a tweed clad gent noticed my large rucksack and stopped to chat. On hearing of my completion of the Way, he smiled broadly, shaking my hand firmly and saying, “Good effort, old boy - onto the next challenge then?”.

The next challenge indeed. In just 7 weeks I’ll be setting off on the Cape Wrath Trail and I’m counting the days.

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Cape Wrath Trail Podcast - Part Two with thanks to theoutdoorsstation.co.uk

Cape Wrath Trail transport

Thought it might be useful to draw together the transport options into one A Postbus can be the only option on the Cape Wrath Trailpost…

Getting to Fort William
I’m planning to go via the Caledonian Sleeper from Kings Cross in London. Leaves in the evening and you wake up in Fort William. If you book ahead you can get some nice deals. I’m paying for mine with vouchers from Virgin due to their constant lateness - thanks to Beardie Branson.

Another option from doon sooth is National Express (formerly GNER) to Glasgow. Again, if you book in advance and buy two singles they have some tidy deals. Once in Glasgow there’s a connecting service to Fort William which is one of the most beautiful train journeys (once you get outside Glasgow). If you’re starting the walk in Glenfinnan rather than Fort William itself, this service continues there and then on to Mallaig.

Other transport on route
Once you’ve started the Cape Wrath Trail, it’s not that easy to stop unless you have the support of a car. There are stations at Strathcarron and Achnashellach but that’s it really.

In remote areas of Scotland, the Postbus can often be a saviour, serving many out of the way places. Other bus route links can be found here.

Leaving the Cape
The Cape Wrath Challenge has a page that pretty comprehensively covers leaving the cape. Most options take you to the nearest train station at Lairg, which is connected to Inverness. I’m opting to fly back to London using Easyjet.

Walking the Cape Wrath Trail at a sensible time of year?

Midwinter won’t be everyone’s ideal choice of season for a 200 mile stroll from Fort William to Cape Wrath, I realise that. However, Scotland can be a strange place for weather to say the least. When I was in Knoydart in April, it was sunnier than Nice.

Summer in the highlands can bring beautiful weather, but it can also be as bad as winter at times. You also have the midges to contend with. Anyone who has dealt with a full-fanged cloud of Scottish midges in mid summer will truly appreciate what a blessing it will be not to be bothered with them in winter. Give me snow over midge any day.

My route (see previous posts) was therefore designed for winter, with the knowledge that not much will be open. As one of the purposes of this blog is to try to draw together information about the Cape Wrath Trail, listed below are some of the main stopping points and some of the accommodation on offer, should you choose to go in summer. Most of this will be closed in winter, where places are open, this is stated.

These are just suggestions, by no means exhaustive and won’t match everybody’s route. They are intended as a starting point and in many cases based on positive personal experiences. Other accommodation options can also be found elsewhere not least our old friend Google or its new fangled rival Cuil.

Fort William
Caledonian Sleeper - a nice way to arrive from London
Torlinnhe Guest House - lovely B&B just outside Fort William
Camusnagaul ferry - from Fort William to the start of your journey in Ardgour. Unless like me you’re cheating and starting in…

Glenfinnan
The Prince’s House Hotel - lovely people and great food
Glenfinnan Sleeping Car - kip in a parked train at the station!
Corryhully Bothy - a “luxury” bothy with electricity and everything

A’Chuil Bothy - Glendessary between Glenfinnan and Knoydart
Sourlies Bothy - Edge of Knoydart en route to Barrisdale, contender for best bothy location

Barrisdale - bothy, campsite and cottage
Kinlochhourn Farm - self-catering accomodation

Shiel Bridge
Kintail Lodge - hotel and bunkhouse
Cluanie Inn - walker friendly
Shiel Bridge Campsite - basic
Suardalan Bothy - outside Shiel Bridge
Shiel Bridge has a petrol station with a well-stocked shop

Killian - Whitefalls retreat bunkhouse just outside Killian

Strathcarron
Strathcarron Hotel - open all year round
Lochcarron Hotel - just outside Stathcarron

Achnashellach - Gerry’s hostel
Easan Dorcha Bothy - very small

Kinlochewe
Taggan campsite - free
Kinlochewe Hotel - has bunkhouse
Kinlochewe has a village shop for re-supply

Dundonnell
Shenavall Bothy - near Dundonnell
Badrallach B&B and campsite
Dundonnell Hotel

Ullapool
Royal Hotel
Westlea Guest House
…and many more. Ullapool will feel like Las Vegas after your journey so far

Knockdamph Bothy

Oykel Bridge Hotel

Inchnadamph
Inchnadamph hotel
Glencoul Bothy

Kylesku
Kylesku Hotel
Newton Lodge Hotel

Rhiconich Hotel

Kinlochbervie
Kinlochbervie Hotel - very helpful, open all year
Old School - Inshegra, nr Kinlochbervie

Kervaig Bothy - near Sandwood Bay en route to the cape

Cape Wrath
No accommodation here, if you’re staying I hope you packed a tent. Camping in the lee of the lighthouse may be a good plan to escape the Atlantic gales. It doesn’t get much more out there than this.