Cape Wrath Trail in Winter

The new route (at last)

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 13:58:13 +0000

It’s taken a while, but here’s the route we’ll be taking this Christmas. On the...

Ultralight in Winter

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 13:42:00 +0000

Ultralight in Winter: Interesting blog post about an expedition between Ullapool and Kinlochewe in...

Applause for Paramo...

Tue, 27 Oct 2009 15:25:00 +0000

A big thank you to those kindly folks at Paramo who have agreed to reproof my Aspira Smock and...

I’m doing this year’s trip to try and raise some...

Mon, 12 Oct 2009 10:02:00 +0100

I’m doing this year’s trip to try and raise some money for a very worthy cause. Any contributions gratefully received. You can find more about Vitalise, the charity I’m supporting and my reasons for doing so at http://www.justgiving.com/iainswalktothecape

Christmas at the Cape - It's back on!

Mon, 28 Sep 2009 17:50:00 +0100

Lots of excitement brewing as it’s now official - Cape Wrath in Winter 2009 is on! I should be...

Kit - what worked and what didn't

Thu, 06 Aug 2009 17:29:00 +0100

With planning for this winter starting again, I was reviewing my kit list and looking at the things...

Mid-summer optimism

Thu, 16 Jul 2009 18:07:00 +0100

Well here we are in mid-summer again, sun streaming through the windows and memories of shivering in...

I’ve been doing a lot of thinking since I had to abort my...

Fri, 15 May 2009 16:47:00 +0100

I’ve been doing a lot of thinking since I had to abort my attempt last Christmas to complete the Cape Wrath Trail. Was it too ambitious to attempt it at that time of year? Should I just settle for doing it in summer? Should I give up altogether?

Whilst up in Knoydart last week, surrounded by that wildest of country I was reminded of why I had attempted it all in the first place.

So I’ve decided to give it another go this winter. Doing it at that time of year was always part of the challenge for me, and last year’s experience (and my current progress towards the Mountain Leader qualification) have taught me an immense amount, including how to survive -15 degree temperatures and 120mph winds.

I’ll be starting in Strathcarron this time round (having done the rest in the interim) and this time I’ve decided to try and raise some funds for a brilliant charity I once had the priviledge of working for called Vitalise, having been completely inspired by the incredible fundraising feats of John Dunbavin.

So the mission is well and truly back on. If anybody fancies joining me then drop me a line at iain[dot]harper[at]gmail[dot]com - it’ll be a trip to remember that’s for sure.

Latest photos from various expeditions

Fri, 27 Feb 2009 09:45:00 +0000

Latest photos from various expeditions

Questions, questions...

Sun, 04 Jan 2009 19:02:00 +0000

With my Cape Wrath Trail plans temporarily on hold until another window of opportunity presents...

Despite a somewhat curtailed trip (this time), I thought...

Sun, 04 Jan 2009 17:56:00 +0000

Despite a somewhat curtailed trip (this time), I thought I’d at least post an up to date description for the first couple of days and then add to it when I get back to the trail later this year.

My route was based around the one outlined in North to the Cape by Denis Brooke and Phil Hinchcliffe which proceeds up Glenfinnan. As the Camusnagaul ferry is seasonal, I opted to start my journey in Glenfinnan rather than Fort William, but a good first day would otherwise take you from Camusnagaul around Loch Eil (either “up and over” or using the not too busy A861 road that hugs the lochside). The first night could be spent either at the very pleasant Prince’s House Hotel in Glenfinnan or at the Corryhully bothy a few km up the glen.

Like me, you’ll probably be carrying a fair bit of food at this stage, so whilst the next day to A’Chuil bothy may look shortish, it’s a good way to ease yourself into the trail. Going is good as you make your way up Glenfinnan, before a steepish drag up to the pass between Streap and Sgurr Thuilm.

Although the spot height here is only 471m, in winter you’re likely to find snow and the first few hundred metres of descent into Gleann Cuirnean is distinctly tricky. On the OS map the path is marked to the West of the stream, but you’ll probably have to cross after a couple of km due to bank erosion. I found it better to stick to the East as the bridge at 969907 is on this side of the river.

Once you’ve crossed the bridge, walk to the fence line and about 100m to the East you will pick up a path through the woods up to the metalled track that leads in a long loop through the woods to A’Chuil bothy (944924). The bothy is spacious, with two rooms and fireplaces, although surrounded by deep bog.

The route in North to the Cape suggests the next night as a wild camp up the Carnach river. However, in Winter the going is sufficiently rough to make a stop at Sourlies sensible. In summer I’d be tempted to push on to the bothy Barisdale, although this would make for a long, tough second day.

Leaving A’Chuil is straightforward enough to do in the dark with a headtorch (in winter) and the metalled track continues for several km before crossing the river Dessary via a bridge at 930935. At this stage the main path continues to follow the river and up through the forest. However, argocat machinery and logging have made this path extremely boggy and almost impassable. A better option is, having crossed the river, to head due North until you clear the woods, joining the path that comes from Upper Glendessary.

From here on the going is very rough. The path comes and goes and conditions underfoot are very sloshy. Things become a bit clearer once you reach Lochan a Mhaim, with a decent river crossing at 890945. The path winding down to Sourlies bothy is steep in places and you’ll definitely be glad to see the bothy, even if it’s only for a late lunch.

Progress from Sourlies is dependent on the state of the tide. At low tide you’ll be able to skirt along the edge of Loch Nevis before heading across the flats to a rickety bridge before Carnoch. At high tide it’s a rough scramble over the headland instead. The going before and immediately after Carnoch is very rough with deep bogs (I went in up to my waist at one stage), making progress slow, tiring and difficult. Things get better as you head up the glen on a reasonably well defined path.

Well, that’s a start anyway, more to follow.

The descent to Loch Nevis (from Sourlies Bothy)

Sat, 03 Jan 2009 00:00:00 +0000

The descent to Loch Nevis (from Sourlies Bothy)

My Cape Wrath Trail route…as it stands today. View on...

Thu, 25 Dec 2008 11:01:00 +0000

My Cape Wrath Trail route…as it stands today. View on larger map

I should also add that my feelings are now that a few of these stages would be very dificult in winter. In January I found that seven hours of light and weather conditions made stages of over 20km pretty much unrealistic. You could do the odd day as I did starting and finishing with headtorch, but it’s not much fun.

In summer I think this would be a good route for a reasonably fit walker.

Route updates - hot off the trail

Thu, 25 Dec 2008 10:33:00 +0000

As mentioned previously, one of the great things about the Cape Wrath Trail is that the route is...

The calm before the storm - looking back to Streap from Gleann...

Wed, 24 Dec 2008 10:21:20 +0000

The calm before the storm - looking back to Streap from Gleann Cuirnean

It all ends in teas (this time)

Wed, 24 Dec 2008 10:19:00 +0000

It was going so well. I was the fittest I’ve been in my life, completely prepared and...

So long for now...

Sun, 14 Dec 2008 20:34:00 +0000

So long for now...: So this is it then, 6 months of preparation are almost over and the trek begins...

Parcels and last preparations…only a couple of weeks to go...

Sun, 07 Dec 2008 10:01:00 +0000

Parcels and last preparations…only a couple of weeks to go now, and the flat is filling up with kit and the re-supply parcels are ready to go to the post office to be delivered to various points on my route. It’s been cold (wind chill down to -20) and snowing heavily in Scotland, so balancing weight and warmth is going to be vital…

One of the unexpected pleasures of this blog has been the way it...

Fri, 05 Dec 2008 11:15:00 +0000

One of the unexpected pleasures of this blog has been the way it has grown from being a way for me to collect all of my preparations and information in one place. I’ve been truly amazed and often humbled by the many people who have got in touch to share their experiences, wish me luck (which I most definitely needed as it happened!) and generally pass the time of day.

A little while back John Dunbavin dropped me a line to suggest a way around that perennial backpacker’s problem of food that is light but tastes half decent (his solution of investing in a de-hydrator to use on your favourite dishes is one I’m currently testing out enthusiastically).

He also sent me a link to his own blog, but weighed down with New Years work it’s taken me until now to read it. When I eventually did, I was truly astounded. To cut a long story short, John has spent five months this year walking all the Munros with his German Shepherd, Skye, to raise money for The Anthony Nolan Trust and Second Chances, a rescue charity for German Shepherd dogs.

If I was ever in danger of feeling sorry for myself about my aborted Christmas trip (which I was a bit), John’s truly awe inspiring and humbling achievement has truly snapped me out of it and made me hungrier than ever to get back on the trail (which I will be doing in May).

John I salute you (and Skye of course).

What would Wainwright make of this...?

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 18:52:00 +0000

I suspect the SPOT satellite tracking device would be utterly incomprehensible to a man in whose era...