Cape Wrath Trail in Winter

I think it’s fair to say that keeping your feet in good...

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 12:06:00 +0000

I think it’s fair to say that keeping your feet in good order is THE most important aspect of any long distance backpack. I know from personal experience having endured days of agony on the West Highland Way a few years back. Long distances, rough ground, heavy loads and frequent immersion are the challenges we face in the NW Highlands in winter. Get it wrong and the journey could be over very quickly. This has prompted an almost PHD level of thinking and preparation that I have asked my compatriot Bob to put down on paper so others may benefit from the many days research and experimentation…!

p.s. I should probably add that my own footwear strategy here has been to go lightweight and technical. The principle I’m working to is it’s futile to try and keep your feet completely dry, so instead am focusing on boots, socks and gaiters that will dry out quickly, perhaps even overnight. We’ll see…as always a lot is about personal preference.

The thorny question of maintaining dry feet

The meandering musings which follow are an account of one man’s search for appropriate footwear for CWW (Cape Wrath in Winter). I was forced to reappraise my original choice after a battering on the Black Mountain in August, an outing which should be a picnic compared to the north of Scotland in December. I did a lot of thinking and some research on the web, and writing it all down was my way of sorting out my thoughts. I didn’t expect to come to any useful conclusion but, rather to my surprise, I did come across an approach that seems to work for me. I’ll find out in four weeks time if I was right.

Why bother? What’s wrong with wet feet? I’ve walked plenty of miles with sodden sox and lived to tell the tale. And in days gone by nobody would even have imagined that dry feet were a possibility. Is it not the case that the traditional Scottish brogues had holes in to let the water out – a pragmatic solution if ever there was one?

I suppose there are three reasons for aspiring to dry feet:

a) Comfort, in a general sense, and as a morale-maintainer;

b) More specifically, avoiding extreme cold, which could be dangerous as well as unpleasant (though if it is that cold, water should be frozen, so that feet are unlikely to get wet from rain or immersion);

c) Most importantly, avoiding blisters and chafing which, if serious enough, could result in infection andor abandonment of a trip, the point being that wet skin is much more vulnerable.

How do wet feet occur? It sounds too elementary a question, but if we’re going to take this investigation seriously we need to know where the wetness is coming from. The answers are:

a) Sweat. Feet sweat a surprising amount, particularly, but not exclusively, in warm weather.

b) Immersion. Obviously, putting a foot into a marsh or stream, so that water comes over the top of the boot, is going to result in a wet foot.

c) Ambient wetness. Sooner or later, water is going to find its way through most boots unless they are made of rubber or plastic. Such water comes either from falling rain or from the ground, in the form of wet vegetation (wet grass is amazingly good at this), marshy ground, slushy snow etc.

d) Intrusion. In the absence of effective gaiters, rain will run down legs and into boots.

e) For completeness, one should add that putting on wet boots andor wet sox will also have the undesired result, even in the absence of other sources.

On the Black Mountain, I experienced d), c), b) and e), in that order: if there was any of a) I didn’t notice it! Overall, I would guess at c) being the main culprit on most trips.

What strategies exist? There seem to be three broad approaches:

1. Outer defences

2. Inner defences

3. Don’t bother.

Outer Defences

This is the approach exemplified by my original intention to wear Koflach (plastic) boots and glued-on Yeti gaiters. The idea is to keep water at bay from all sources. Indeed, nothing will get through the plastic boots and the Yetis should provide a sound defence, even resisting immersion if very brief. So long as the strategy works, and temperatures are low, feet should remain warm and dry. Another advantage is that the inner boots can be worn around huts and bothies; also, for major river crossings the outer boots can be worn after removing the inners and all sox, and they will not soak up anything in the process. For me, an advantage was that I already had both boots and Yetis, making it a low-cost tried-and-tested option.

The downside, of course, is that plastic boots are relatively heavy, cumbersome, and less comfortable than more conventional boots. However, the main objection is that the strategy itself is a high risk one: while it works, it works very well, but if a foot goes in during a crossing then three layers of sox and an inner boot get soaked, resulting in lasting dampness and discomfort as well as unwelcome additional weight. It seems too high a risk to take. It’s still the strategy of choice for snowy or icy conditions, which is what I used to use it for, but my guess is that CWW is more likely to be wet than snowy or icy, which is why I investigated …

Inner Defences

This strategy accepts that most boots aren’t waterproof (whatever they claim) and therefore interposes a waterproof but breathable sock or liner between the boot and foot. There are two main approaches.

Sealskinz are a fairly thick sock, with a rubbery membrane between two layers of fabric – the inner being Merino wool in some models. They are designed to be worn next to the skin. There is a bewildering number of different models, some – interestingly, from our viewpoint – of mid-calf or even knee length, but quite pricey as a result.

Goretex socks are quite different. In fact, those that I’ve handled or seen described are not really socks at all but boot liners, being designed to wear outside socks. They also tend to be short: the ones I’ve seen reach little higher up the ankle than typical boots. There seem to be two or three models available in the UK, notably the Trekmates Amphibian (of which I have purchased a sample, out of interest) and ex-Army (which don’t currently seem to be available but look very similar to the Amphibian). Despite extravagant claims of stretch fabrics, flexibility is close to zero: the material looks, feels and behaves as though it has been cut from a pair of overtrousers.

It is well known that most contributions to internet forums and online reviews tend to be extreme: there’s little incentive for those who are merely mildly (dis)satisfied to go to the trouble of saying so. And there’s just as wide a divergence of views about waterproof sox as anything else.

There are plenty of people who are enthusiastic about their experiences, including a large number of (presumably genuine) testimonials on the Sealskinz site. However, many of these enthusiasts seem to be runners, cyclists, fishermen etc: few if any are long-distance backpackers. Perhaps more convincingly, quite a few Army types enthused about their Goretex boot liners. Others have been less enthusiastic. My son used Sealskinz for backpacking and was ambivalent about them. A friend of mine is an extreme runner and says, “I like Sealskinz socks for the winter. I use them both for walking and running. I don’t find that they keep my feet particularly dry but they are comfortable and drier than normal socks.” Is that a ringing endorsement or damning with faint praise?

People have many reasons for condemning waterproof sox:

a) They simply don’t work – they’re not waterproof, andor they don’t breathe;

b) If they do get wet inside, they’re worse than nothing;

c) Because of their relatively stiff construction they (particularly Goretex) are prone to crumple, causing pressure spots and blisters;

d) Sealskinz won’t dry out overnight, and you can’t even put them on a radiator (or, I suppose, in front of a hot fire) to assist the process;

e) Finally, they don’t make a seal round the leg and so are prone to flooding from either immersion or intrusion. However, one cunning lad described his solution: he made seals by cutting off the fingers of kitchen gloves, leaving two tubes which he further sealed by the use of vaseline.

In addition, I have three objections:

1. In all cases, the sizing is very crude: S, M, L etc. That means that it is a matter of luck whether a particular size of a particular model happens to actually fit you. It took me a long time to arrive at a sock combination that works reliably well, based on socks of just the right size and thickness: it therefore goes against the grain to introduce something crudely sized (and shaped).

2. We all know how poorly so-called breathable so-called waterproof membranes actually perform even in relatively ideal conditions, so it requires a real leap of faith to imagine them working inside the hostile confines of a sodden pair of boots.

3. And we’ve all had boots which claimed to be waterproof due to the inclusion of a Goretex or other membrane. Do they work? No: at least, not for very long. Why then, should a Goretex liner perform any better? Its only advantage would be that it is removable and therefore replaceable.

The Acid Test

I wore the Amphibian Goretex socks for a day outing which was designed to emulate Scottish conditions (but without the rain or midge) including miles of thick wet vegetation, difficult marshy ground and a number of stream crossings. I used my normal boots and gaiters, both old and now very leaky, and my normal socks: a short close-fitting inner and a much thicker and longer outer. I wore the Amphibians between the two, and sealed the tops with tubes cut from disposable gloves (more flexible than most kitchen gloves, thus avoiding the need for messy vaseline).

The additional layer felt a little tight at first but my feet soon settled in and remained comfortable all day. After the first couple of miles of wet vegetation and marsh my boots were soaking and I would normally have been expecting to experience wet feet by then, but they only felt wet after the first stream crossing, involving total immersion. In fact this feeling of wetness was an illusion: my feet could ‘feel’ the wetness of the outer sock, but they themselves remained dry. At other times my feet did feel rather warm, but it was a warm day and I took my gaiters off. During the remainder of the day I made a number of further careless crossings and waded through any number of marshy bits. At the end of the day my inner socks were just slightly damp, consistent with a little sweating; I was perfectly happy to put my trainers on over them for the drive home.

It was hardly a test worthy of Which? but the outcome has to be a cautious thumbs up for the Amphibian when used in conjunction with a seal. I experienced none of the potential problems. The only thing I noticed was a tendency of the socks to creep down at the back – probably because they are fractionally too small for me – and thereby break the seal. I simply got into the habit of checking the seal from time to time and before any deliberate immersion. Despite my scepticism at an intellectual level, what I actually felt was confidence and invulnerability, which was quite uplifiting – and in practical terms, of course, there was rarely any need to waste time and energy looking for ways round boggy bits: I just ploughed on through.

I have since used the Amphibians a couple more times with complete success. This is not the outcome I expected but the results speak for themselves. This, therefore, is the combination I am going to use next month, thereby avoiding the risks involved with new boots, which was another option I considered. But what if the liners get damaged or stop working for some other reason? One then ends up with the default position, which is …

Don’t Bother

As already remarked, until relatively recently nobody would have tried to maintain dry feet because the necessary technology didn’t exist. That didn’t stop people from enjoying the mountains and other wild places. They may, however, have suffered from some discomfort, possibly worse if wetness was followed by extreme cold. More commonly, though, wet feet can mean chafing and blisters, which can in turn result in more than just a little discomfort.

Why does this occur? Wet sox become compressed, so they do not support the foot so well, allowing it to move inside the boot. At the same time they may crumple, creating pressure points. And wet skin is more susceptible to damage.

At the risk of stating the blindingly obvious, feet are a very personal thing. Some people only have to look at a hill to break out in blisters; others seem to have cast iron appendages. My own experience is that I’ve had relatively little trouble, over the years, and when I have had a problem I’ve dealt with it, more or less successfully, by one of two means. One is to use plasters (or, rather, dressing strip, which is much more flexible) to protect raw spots. This doesn’t always work since plasters don’t readily stay stuck to wet skin. My main weapon, therefore, is deer tallow, a soft wax which acts as a soothing lubricant which can readily and effectively be applied to an area which is actually or potentially affected by chafe. It works for me and is less messy than some of the compounds recommended by others. I’ve been using the same tube for years but I am delighted to have recently found a new supplier, since it isn’t very readily available. Armed with an extra tube, then, I’ll be prepared to face the worst even if the Amphibians let me down.

Bob the Backpacker, November 2009

The revised kit list

Mon, 09 Nov 2009 16:02:00 +0000

A few people have enquired what sort of gear I’ll be using on the trip, so here’s a...

The new route (at last)

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 13:58:13 +0000

It’s taken a while, but here’s the route we’ll be taking this Christmas. On the...

Ultralight in Winter

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 13:42:00 +0000

Ultralight in Winter: Interesting blog post about an expedition between Ullapool and Kinlochewe in...

Applause for Paramo...

Tue, 27 Oct 2009 15:25:00 +0000

A big thank you to those kindly folks at Paramo who have agreed to reproof my Aspira Smock and...

I’m doing this year’s trip to try and raise some...

Mon, 12 Oct 2009 10:02:00 +0100

I’m doing this year’s trip to try and raise some money for a very worthy cause. Any contributions gratefully received. You can find more about Vitalise, the charity I’m supporting and my reasons for doing so at http://www.justgiving.com/iainswalktothecape

Christmas at the Cape - It's back on!

Mon, 28 Sep 2009 17:50:00 +0100

Lots of excitement brewing as it’s now official - Cape Wrath in Winter 2009 is on! I should be...

Kit - what worked and what didn't

Thu, 06 Aug 2009 17:29:00 +0100

With planning for this winter starting again, I was reviewing my kit list and looking at the things...

Mid-summer optimism

Thu, 16 Jul 2009 18:07:00 +0100

Well here we are in mid-summer again, sun streaming through the windows and memories of shivering in...

I’ve been doing a lot of thinking since I had to abort my...

Fri, 15 May 2009 16:47:00 +0100

I’ve been doing a lot of thinking since I had to abort my attempt last Christmas to complete the Cape Wrath Trail. Was it too ambitious to attempt it at that time of year? Should I just settle for doing it in summer? Should I give up altogether?

Whilst up in Knoydart last week, surrounded by that wildest of country I was reminded of why I had attempted it all in the first place.

So I’ve decided to give it another go this winter. Doing it at that time of year was always part of the challenge for me, and last year’s experience (and my current progress towards the Mountain Leader qualification) have taught me an immense amount, including how to survive -15 degree temperatures and 120mph winds.

I’ll be starting in Strathcarron this time round (having done the rest in the interim) and this time I’ve decided to try and raise some funds for a brilliant charity I once had the priviledge of working for called Vitalise, having been completely inspired by the incredible fundraising feats of John Dunbavin.

So the mission is well and truly back on. If anybody fancies joining me then drop me a line at iain[dot]harper[at]gmail[dot]com - it’ll be a trip to remember that’s for sure.

Latest photos from various expeditions

Fri, 27 Feb 2009 09:45:00 +0000

Latest photos from various expeditions

Questions, questions...

Sun, 04 Jan 2009 19:02:00 +0000

With my Cape Wrath Trail plans temporarily on hold until another window of opportunity presents...

Despite a somewhat curtailed trip (this time), I thought...

Sun, 04 Jan 2009 17:56:00 +0000

Despite a somewhat curtailed trip (this time), I thought I’d at least post an up to date description for the first couple of days and then add to it when I get back to the trail later this year.

My route was based around the one outlined in North to the Cape by Denis Brooke and Phil Hinchcliffe which proceeds up Glenfinnan. As the Camusnagaul ferry is seasonal, I opted to start my journey in Glenfinnan rather than Fort William, but a good first day would otherwise take you from Camusnagaul around Loch Eil (either “up and over” or using the not too busy A861 road that hugs the lochside). The first night could be spent either at the very pleasant Prince’s House Hotel in Glenfinnan or at the Corryhully bothy a few km up the glen.

Like me, you’ll probably be carrying a fair bit of food at this stage, so whilst the next day to A’Chuil bothy may look shortish, it’s a good way to ease yourself into the trail. Going is good as you make your way up Glenfinnan, before a steepish drag up to the pass between Streap and Sgurr Thuilm.

Although the spot height here is only 471m, in winter you’re likely to find snow and the first few hundred metres of descent into Gleann Cuirnean is distinctly tricky. On the OS map the path is marked to the West of the stream, but you’ll probably have to cross after a couple of km due to bank erosion. I found it better to stick to the East as the bridge at 969907 is on this side of the river.

Once you’ve crossed the bridge, walk to the fence line and about 100m to the East you will pick up a path through the woods up to the metalled track that leads in a long loop through the woods to A’Chuil bothy (944924). The bothy is spacious, with two rooms and fireplaces, although surrounded by deep bog.

The route in North to the Cape suggests the next night as a wild camp up the Carnach river. However, in Winter the going is sufficiently rough to make a stop at Sourlies sensible. In summer I’d be tempted to push on to the bothy Barisdale, although this would make for a long, tough second day.

Leaving A’Chuil is straightforward enough to do in the dark with a headtorch (in winter) and the metalled track continues for several km before crossing the river Dessary via a bridge at 930935. At this stage the main path continues to follow the river and up through the forest. However, argocat machinery and logging have made this path extremely boggy and almost impassable. A better option is, having crossed the river, to head due North until you clear the woods, joining the path that comes from Upper Glendessary.

From here on the going is very rough. The path comes and goes and conditions underfoot are very sloshy. Things become a bit clearer once you reach Lochan a Mhaim, with a decent river crossing at 890945. The path winding down to Sourlies bothy is steep in places and you’ll definitely be glad to see the bothy, even if it’s only for a late lunch.

Progress from Sourlies is dependent on the state of the tide. At low tide you’ll be able to skirt along the edge of Loch Nevis before heading across the flats to a rickety bridge before Carnoch. At high tide it’s a rough scramble over the headland instead. The going before and immediately after Carnoch is very rough with deep bogs (I went in up to my waist at one stage), making progress slow, tiring and difficult. Things get better as you head up the glen on a reasonably well defined path.

Well, that’s a start anyway, more to follow.

The descent to Loch Nevis (from Sourlies Bothy)

Sat, 03 Jan 2009 00:00:00 +0000

The descent to Loch Nevis (from Sourlies Bothy)

My Cape Wrath Trail route…as it stands today. View on...

Thu, 25 Dec 2008 11:01:00 +0000

My Cape Wrath Trail route…as it stands today. View on larger map

I should also add that my feelings are now that a few of these stages would be very dificult in winter. In January I found that seven hours of light and weather conditions made stages of over 20km pretty much unrealistic. You could do the odd day as I did starting and finishing with headtorch, but it’s not much fun.

In summer I think this would be a good route for a reasonably fit walker.

Route updates - hot off the trail

Thu, 25 Dec 2008 10:33:00 +0000

As mentioned previously, one of the great things about the Cape Wrath Trail is that the route is...

The calm before the storm - looking back to Streap from Gleann...

Wed, 24 Dec 2008 10:21:20 +0000

The calm before the storm - looking back to Streap from Gleann Cuirnean

It all ends in teas (this time)

Wed, 24 Dec 2008 10:19:00 +0000

It was going so well. I was the fittest I’ve been in my life, completely prepared and...

So long for now...

Sun, 14 Dec 2008 20:34:00 +0000

So long for now...: So this is it then, 6 months of preparation are almost over and the trek begins...

Parcels and last preparations…only a couple of weeks to go...

Sun, 07 Dec 2008 10:01:00 +0000

Parcels and last preparations…only a couple of weeks to go now, and the flat is filling up with kit and the re-supply parcels are ready to go to the post office to be delivered to various points on my route. It’s been cold (wind chill down to -20) and snowing heavily in Scotland, so balancing weight and warmth is going to be vital…