Day 10 Glencoul to Achfary (21K, 600m ascent)
I woke after probably the best night’s sleep of the trek so far feeling refreshed, but stiff after yesterday’s exertions. We dallied over breakfast and set off into first light, climbing steeply along the side of Loch Glencoul with majestic views back towards the stunningly located bothy.
The promontory of Aird Da Loch reminded me of the stepped prow of an old battleship, jutting out aggressively into the confluence of Lochs Glencoul and Glendhu. As we contoured round, we lost the track in snow and endured a rough cross country hack until we picked the path up again, winding along icy rock past huge granite boulders to the end of the loch.
Even though it was early, we were both feeling the effects of the previous day and decided to stop for lunch at Glendhu bothy. My thoughts turned again to summer evenings lounging on the grassy shores of the loch watching the sun set over Kylesku. At least our wintry surroundings meant no midges.
It took a supreme effort to raise our aching limbs after lunch and progress was slow, even on a good lochside track. By the time we turned towards Loch an Lauthian Bhuain, I was starting to think that our overnight goal of Achfary was beyond us.
Ascent through knee deep snow alongside the loch was draining and when Bob caught me up it was clear he was thinking the same. We decided to try and push on as far as we could, but by the time I reached the junction with the main path over the top to Achfary, light was fading fast so we decided to pitch next to the track and a small stream.
At least we wouldn’t have any difficulties finding the track in the morning. As I climbed into my poorly snow-pitched tent (looking enviously at Bob’s orange snow pegs) I was already starting to think about the epic day we faced tomorrow. We would have a hot shower at the end of it though.
Journal entry Monday 21st December - “A strange and difficult day. We set off in good spirits after a very sound night’s sleep but I think we were both so focused on the previous day that we underestimated the length and difficulty of today.
As I write another blizzard is hitting the tent. We may have to dig ourselves out in the morning. So, one more big day until hot showers and food. Life goes by in the blink of an eye, but never has 24 hours seemed further away.”
