Mid-summer optimism


Well here we are in mid-summer again, sun streaming through the windows and memories of shivering in arctic bothies far away…sound familiar? Anyway, thanks to those of you that got in touch following my last post. It now looks like I may well have a companion for the next attempt on the Cape Wrath Trail this winter. So, at last there may be a few more things to post about on this blog, and fewer tumbleweeds blowing through the place.

It is looking like the winter trip will start from Strathcarron and head northwards to the cape. I’m intending to do the Strathcarron to Sourlies section some time in October, walking South. That way if I actually reach the cape this time, I can definitively say I’ve done the whole thing. Not quite in one go, but as I’m realising, to finish this route at all is a considerable achievement. To do most of it in mid-winter is slightly crazy.

So the inordinate amount of planning starts again, checking maps, train timetables, grid references and distances. While all this goes on I’ve been getting some inspiration from Roger Boston’s website. A veteran of The Great Outdoors Challenge which covers much of the same territory as the Cape Wrath Trail, this makes for fascinating reading with some great photos. Cracking stuff.

I’ve been doing a lot of thinking since I had to abort my attempt last Christmas to complete the Cape Wrath Trail. Was it too ambitious to attempt it at that time of year?  Should I just settle for doing it in summer? Should I give up altogether? Whilst up in Knoydart last week, surrounded by that wildest of country I was reminded of why I had attempted it all in the first place. So I’ve decided to give it another go this winter. Doing it at that time of year was always part of the challenge for me, and last year’s experience (and my current progress towards the Mountain Leader qualification) have taught me an immense amount, including how to survive -15 degree temperatures and 120mph winds. I’ll be starting in Strathcarron this time round (having done the rest in the interim) and this time I’ve decided to try and raise some funds for a brilliant charity I once had the priviledge of working for called Vitalise, having been completely inspired by the incredible fundraising feats of John Dunbavin. So the mission is well and truly back on. If anybody fancies joining me then drop me a line at iain[dot]harper[at]gmail[dot]com - it’ll be a trip to remember that’s for sure.

I’ve been doing a lot of thinking since I had to abort my attempt last Christmas to complete the Cape Wrath Trail. Was it too ambitious to attempt it at that time of year?  Should I just settle for doing it in summer? Should I give up altogether?

Whilst up in Knoydart last week, surrounded by that wildest of country I was reminded of why I had attempted it all in the first place.

So I’ve decided to give it another go this winter. Doing it at that time of year was always part of the challenge for me, and last year’s experience (and my current progress towards the Mountain Leader qualification) have taught me an immense amount, including how to survive -15 degree temperatures and 120mph winds.

I’ll be starting in Strathcarron this time round (having done the rest in the interim) and this time I’ve decided to try and raise some funds for a brilliant charity I once had the priviledge of working for called Vitalise, having been completely inspired by the incredible fundraising feats of John Dunbavin.

So the mission is well and truly back on. If anybody fancies joining me then drop me a line at iain[dot]harper[at]gmail[dot]com - it’ll be a trip to remember that’s for sure.

Latest photos from various expeditions

Questions, questions...

With my Cape Wrath Trail plans temporarily on hold until another window of opportunity presents itself, I thought it would be a good idea to revisit one of the original intentions of this blog.

When I started out 6 months ago I struggled to find all the information I needed and wanted to draw it all together in one place to help others tackling this amazing trail. In the process this blog has become rather long and rambling and I suspect, rather hard to navigate. So I thought it might be helpful to create a post that summarised the main questions I had when first approaching the walk…

What route should I take?
One of the beauties of the Cape Wrath Trail is that there is no official route. At its simplest, it is a journey from Fort William to Cape Wrath. Several people have suggested routes that avoid roads as far as possible and provide a good mix of terrain. some of these can be found here.

Is there a guide book that covers the route?
North to the Cape by Denis Brooke and Phil Hinchcliffe, describes “a route” in detail and is essential reading for anyone attempting the Cape Wrath Trail. The only drawbacks to the book are that it’s ten years old and in all but one instance doesn’t list bothies.

What time of year is best to do the route?
April and September are generally held to be the best months, being almost summer and avoiding the worst of the midge season. I attempted it in mid winter and encountered 120mph winds and arctic conditions. Light is also limited to 7 hours max. Is it possible in winter? Yes, but limiting days to 20km and being as flexible as possible should unspeakable weather come in are advisable.

What equipment will I need?
Equipment is intensely personal, but suffice to say that given the remoteness and challenges of the trail, you’ll need gear that’s up to the job. The following is a list of stuff I took in winter:
http://northtothecape.tumblr.com/post/50400540/equipment-for-the-cape-wrath-trail

What maps will I need?
http://northtothecape.tumblr.com/post/46048801/os-maps-needed-for-the-cape-wrath-trail

What accommodation is available en route?
This is very much dependent on the time of year. In summer you’ll probably be able to park your head on a feather pillow most nights if you wish, in winter options are very limited:
http://northtothecape.tumblr.com/post/46807306/accommodation-on-the-cape-wrath-trail

How do I get back from Cape Wrath?
http://northtothecape.tumblr.com/post/46809939/getting-away-from-cape-wrath

Can I get supplies along the route?
Yes, there are shops in Shiel bridge, Kinlochewe, Inshegra (The London Stores), Ullapool (Tesco) and Kinlochbervie (Spar). Most hotels and bunkhouses will also allow you to post supply parcels to pick up en route if you ask nicely. Some useful point of interest can be found here:
http://northtothecape.tumblr.com/post/46420402/another-cape-wrath-trail-route

Despite a somewhat curtailed trip (this time), I thought I’d at least post an up to date description for the first couple of days and then add to it when I get back to the trail later this year. My route was based around the one outlined in North to the Cape by Denis Brooke and Phil Hinchcliffe which proceeds up Glenfinnan. As the Camusnagaul ferry is seasonal, I opted to start my journey in Glenfinnan rather than Fort William, but a good first day would otherwise take you from Camusnagaul around Loch Eil (either “up and over” or using the not too busy A861 road that hugs the lochside). The first night could be spent either at the very pleasant Prince’s House Hotel in Glenfinnan or at the Corryhully bothy a few km up the glen. Like me, you’ll probably be carrying a fair bit of food at this stage, so whilst the next day to A’Chuil bothy may look shortish, it’s a good way to ease yourself into the trail. Going is good as you make your way up Glenfinnan, before a steepish drag up to the pass between Streap and Sgurr Thuilm. Although the spot height here is only 471m, in winter you’re likely to find snow and the first few hundred metres of descent into Gleann Cuirnean is distinctly tricky. On the OS map the path is marked to the West of the stream, but you’ll probably have to cross after a couple of km due to bank erosion. I found it better to stick to the East as the bridge at 969907 is on this side of the river. Once you’ve crossed the bridge, walk to the fence line and about 100m to the East you will pick up a path through the woods up to the metalled track that leads in a long loop through the woods to A’Chuil bothy (944924). The bothy is spacious, with two rooms and fireplaces, although surrounded by deep bog. The route in North to the Cape suggests the next night as a wild camp up the Carnach river. However, in Winter the going is sufficiently rough to make a stop at Sourlies sensible. In summer I’d be tempted to push on to the bothy Barisdale, although this would make for a long, tough second day. Leaving A’Chuil is straightforward enough to do in the dark with a headtorch (in winter) and the metalled track continues for several km before crossing the river Dessary via a bridge at 930935. At this stage the main path continues to follow the river and up through the forest. However, argocat machinery and logging have made this path extremely boggy and almost impassable. A better option is, having crossed the river, to head due North until you clear the woods, joining the path that comes from Upper Glendessary. From here on the going is very rough. The path comes and goes and conditions underfoot are very sloshy. Things become a bit clearer once you reach Lochan a Mhaim, with a decent river crossing at 890945. The path winding down to Sourlies bothy is steep in places and you’ll definitely be glad to see the bothy, even if it’s only for a late lunch. Progress from Sourlies is dependent on the state of the tide. At low tide you’ll be able to skirt along the edge of Loch Nevis before heading across the flats to a rickety bridge before Carnoch. At high tide it’s a rough scramble over the headland instead. The going before and immediately after Carnoch is very rough with deep bogs (I went in up to my waist at one stage), making progress slow, tiring and difficult. Things get better as you head up the glen on a reasonably well defined path. Well, that’s a start anyway, more to follow.

Despite a somewhat curtailed trip (this time), I thought I’d at least post an up to date description for the first couple of days and then add to it when I get back to the trail later this year.

My route was based around the one outlined in North to the Cape by Denis Brooke and Phil Hinchcliffe which proceeds up Glenfinnan. As the Camusnagaul ferry is seasonal, I opted to start my journey in Glenfinnan rather than Fort William, but a good first day would otherwise take you from Camusnagaul around Loch Eil (either “up and over” or using the not too busy A861 road that hugs the lochside). The first night could be spent either at the very pleasant Prince’s House Hotel in Glenfinnan or at the Corryhully bothy a few km up the glen.

Like me, you’ll probably be carrying a fair bit of food at this stage, so whilst the next day to A’Chuil bothy may look shortish, it’s a good way to ease yourself into the trail. Going is good as you make your way up Glenfinnan, before a steepish drag up to the pass between Streap and Sgurr Thuilm.

Although the spot height here is only 471m, in winter you’re likely to find snow and the first few hundred metres of descent into Gleann Cuirnean is distinctly tricky. On the OS map the path is marked to the West of the stream, but you’ll probably have to cross after a couple of km due to bank erosion. I found it better to stick to the East as the bridge at 969907 is on this side of the river.

Once you’ve crossed the bridge, walk to the fence line and about 100m to the East you will pick up a path through the woods up to the metalled track that leads in a long loop through the woods to A’Chuil bothy (944924). The bothy is spacious, with two rooms and fireplaces, although surrounded by deep bog.

The route in North to the Cape suggests the next night as a wild camp up the Carnach river. However, in Winter the going is sufficiently rough to make a stop at Sourlies sensible. In summer I’d be tempted to push on to the bothy Barisdale, although this would make for a long, tough second day.

Leaving A’Chuil is straightforward enough to do in the dark with a headtorch (in winter) and the metalled track continues for several km before crossing the river Dessary via a bridge at 930935. At this stage the main path continues to follow the river and up through the forest. However, argocat machinery and logging have made this path extremely boggy and almost impassable. A better option is, having crossed the river, to head due North until you clear the woods, joining the path that comes from Upper Glendessary.

From here on the going is very rough. The path comes and goes and conditions underfoot are very sloshy. Things become a bit clearer once you reach Lochan a Mhaim, with a decent river crossing at 890945. The path winding down to Sourlies bothy is steep in places and you’ll definitely be glad to see the bothy, even if it’s only for a late lunch.

Progress from Sourlies is dependent on the state of the tide. At low tide you’ll be able to skirt along the edge of Loch Nevis before heading across the flats to a rickety bridge before Carnoch. At high tide it’s a rough scramble over the headland instead. The going before and immediately after Carnoch is very rough with deep bogs (I went in up to my waist at one stage), making progress slow, tiring and difficult. Things get better as you head up the glen on a reasonably well defined path.

Well, that’s a start anyway, more to follow.

The descent to Loch Nevis (from Sourlies Bothy)

The descent to Loch Nevis (from Sourlies Bothy)

My Cape Wrath Trail route…as it stands today. View on larger map

I should also add that my feelings are now that a few of these stages would be very dificult in winter. In January I found that seven hours of light and weather conditions made stages of over 20km pretty much unrealistic. You could do the odd day as I did starting and finishing with headtorch, but it’s not much fun.

In summer I think this would be a good route for a reasonably fit walker.