I think it’s fair to say that keeping your feet in good order is THE most important aspect of any long distance backpack. I know from personal experience having endured days of agony on the West Highland Way a few years back. Long distances, rough ground, heavy loads and frequent immersion are the challenges we face in the NW Highlands in winter. Get it wrong and the journey could be over very quickly. This has prompted an almost PHD level of thinking and preparation that I have asked my compatriot Bob to put down on paper so others may benefit from the many days research and experimentation…!
p.s. I should probably add that my own footwear strategy here has been to go lightweight and technical. The principle I’m working to is it’s futile to try and keep your feet completely dry, so instead am focusing on boots, socks and gaiters that will dry out quickly, perhaps even overnight. We’ll see…as always a lot is about personal preference.
The thorny question of maintaining dry feet
The meandering musings which follow are an account of one man’s search for appropriate footwear for CWW (Cape Wrath in Winter). I was forced to reappraise my original choice after a battering on the Black Mountain in August, an outing which should be a picnic compared to the north of Scotland in December. I did a lot of thinking and some research on the web, and writing it all down was my way of sorting out my thoughts. I didn’t expect to come to any useful conclusion but, rather to my surprise, I did come across an approach that seems to work for me. I’ll find out in four weeks time if I was right.
Why bother? What’s wrong with wet feet? I’ve walked plenty of miles with sodden sox and lived to tell the tale. And in days gone by nobody would even have imagined that dry feet were a possibility. Is it not the case that the traditional Scottish brogues had holes in to let the water out – a pragmatic solution if ever there was one?
I suppose there are three reasons for aspiring to dry feet:
a) Comfort, in a general sense, and as a morale-maintainer;
b) More specifically, avoiding extreme cold, which could be dangerous as well as unpleasant (though if it is that cold, water should be frozen, so that feet are unlikely to get wet from rain or immersion);
c) Most importantly, avoiding blisters and chafing which, if serious enough, could result in infection andor abandonment of a trip, the point being that wet skin is much more vulnerable.
How do wet feet occur? It sounds too elementary a question, but if we’re going to take this investigation seriously we need to know where the wetness is coming from. The answers are:
a) Sweat. Feet sweat a surprising amount, particularly, but not exclusively, in warm weather.
b) Immersion. Obviously, putting a foot into a marsh or stream, so that water comes over the top of the boot, is going to result in a wet foot.
c) Ambient wetness. Sooner or later, water is going to find its way through most boots unless they are made of rubber or plastic. Such water comes either from falling rain or from the ground, in the form of wet vegetation (wet grass is amazingly good at this), marshy ground, slushy snow etc.
d) Intrusion. In the absence of effective gaiters, rain will run down legs and into boots.
e) For completeness, one should add that putting on wet boots andor wet sox will also have the undesired result, even in the absence of other sources.
On the Black Mountain, I experienced d), c), b) and e), in that order: if there was any of a) I didn’t notice it! Overall, I would guess at c) being the main culprit on most trips.
What strategies exist? There seem to be three broad approaches:
1. Outer defences
2. Inner defences
3. Don’t bother.
Outer Defences
This is the approach exemplified by my original intention to wear Koflach (plastic) boots and glued-on Yeti gaiters. The idea is to keep water at bay from all sources. Indeed, nothing will get through the plastic boots and the Yetis should provide a sound defence, even resisting immersion if very brief. So long as the strategy works, and temperatures are low, feet should remain warm and dry. Another advantage is that the inner boots can be worn around huts and bothies; also, for major river crossings the outer boots can be worn after removing the inners and all sox, and they will not soak up anything in the process. For me, an advantage was that I already had both boots and Yetis, making it a low-cost tried-and-tested option.
The downside, of course, is that plastic boots are relatively heavy, cumbersome, and less comfortable than more conventional boots. However, the main objection is that the strategy itself is a high risk one: while it works, it works very well, but if a foot goes in during a crossing then three layers of sox and an inner boot get soaked, resulting in lasting dampness and discomfort as well as unwelcome additional weight. It seems too high a risk to take. It’s still the strategy of choice for snowy or icy conditions, which is what I used to use it for, but my guess is that CWW is more likely to be wet than snowy or icy, which is why I investigated …
Inner Defences
This strategy accepts that most boots aren’t waterproof (whatever they claim) and therefore interposes a waterproof but breathable sock or liner between the boot and foot. There are two main approaches.
Sealskinz are a fairly thick sock, with a rubbery membrane between two layers of fabric – the inner being Merino wool in some models. They are designed to be worn next to the skin. There is a bewildering number of different models, some – interestingly, from our viewpoint – of mid-calf or even knee length, but quite pricey as a result.
Goretex socks are quite different. In fact, those that I’ve handled or seen described are not really socks at all but boot liners, being designed to wear outside socks. They also tend to be short: the ones I’ve seen reach little higher up the ankle than typical boots. There seem to be two or three models available in the UK, notably the Trekmates Amphibian (of which I have purchased a sample, out of interest) and ex-Army (which don’t currently seem to be available but look very similar to the Amphibian). Despite extravagant claims of stretch fabrics, flexibility is close to zero: the material looks, feels and behaves as though it has been cut from a pair of overtrousers.
It is well known that most contributions to internet forums and online reviews tend to be extreme: there’s little incentive for those who are merely mildly (dis)satisfied to go to the trouble of saying so. And there’s just as wide a divergence of views about waterproof sox as anything else.
There are plenty of people who are enthusiastic about their experiences, including a large number of (presumably genuine) testimonials on the Sealskinz site. However, many of these enthusiasts seem to be runners, cyclists, fishermen etc: few if any are long-distance backpackers. Perhaps more convincingly, quite a few Army types enthused about their Goretex boot liners. Others have been less enthusiastic. My son used Sealskinz for backpacking and was ambivalent about them. A friend of mine is an extreme runner and says, “I like Sealskinz socks for the winter. I use them both for walking and running. I don’t find that they keep my feet particularly dry but they are comfortable and drier than normal socks.” Is that a ringing endorsement or damning with faint praise?
People have many reasons for condemning waterproof sox:
a) They simply don’t work – they’re not waterproof, andor they don’t breathe;
b) If they do get wet inside, they’re worse than nothing;
c) Because of their relatively stiff construction they (particularly Goretex) are prone to crumple, causing pressure spots and blisters;
d) Sealskinz won’t dry out overnight, and you can’t even put them on a radiator (or, I suppose, in front of a hot fire) to assist the process;
e) Finally, they don’t make a seal round the leg and so are prone to flooding from either immersion or intrusion. However, one cunning lad described his solution: he made seals by cutting off the fingers of kitchen gloves, leaving two tubes which he further sealed by the use of vaseline.
In addition, I have three objections:
1. In all cases, the sizing is very crude: S, M, L etc. That means that it is a matter of luck whether a particular size of a particular model happens to actually fit you. It took me a long time to arrive at a sock combination that works reliably well, based on socks of just the right size and thickness: it therefore goes against the grain to introduce something crudely sized (and shaped).
2. We all know how poorly so-called breathable so-called waterproof membranes actually perform even in relatively ideal conditions, so it requires a real leap of faith to imagine them working inside the hostile confines of a sodden pair of boots.
3. And we’ve all had boots which claimed to be waterproof due to the inclusion of a Goretex or other membrane. Do they work? No: at least, not for very long. Why then, should a Goretex liner perform any better? Its only advantage would be that it is removable and therefore replaceable.
The Acid Test
I wore the Amphibian Goretex socks for a day outing which was designed to emulate Scottish conditions (but without the rain or midge) including miles of thick wet vegetation, difficult marshy ground and a number of stream crossings. I used my normal boots and gaiters, both old and now very leaky, and my normal socks: a short close-fitting inner and a much thicker and longer outer. I wore the Amphibians between the two, and sealed the tops with tubes cut from disposable gloves (more flexible than most kitchen gloves, thus avoiding the need for messy vaseline).
The additional layer felt a little tight at first but my feet soon settled in and remained comfortable all day. After the first couple of miles of wet vegetation and marsh my boots were soaking and I would normally have been expecting to experience wet feet by then, but they only felt wet after the first stream crossing, involving total immersion. In fact this feeling of wetness was an illusion: my feet could ‘feel’ the wetness of the outer sock, but they themselves remained dry. At other times my feet did feel rather warm, but it was a warm day and I took my gaiters off. During the remainder of the day I made a number of further careless crossings and waded through any number of marshy bits. At the end of the day my inner socks were just slightly damp, consistent with a little sweating; I was perfectly happy to put my trainers on over them for the drive home.
It was hardly a test worthy of Which? but the outcome has to be a cautious thumbs up for the Amphibian when used in conjunction with a seal. I experienced none of the potential problems. The only thing I noticed was a tendency of the socks to creep down at the back – probably because they are fractionally too small for me – and thereby break the seal. I simply got into the habit of checking the seal from time to time and before any deliberate immersion. Despite my scepticism at an intellectual level, what I actually felt was confidence and invulnerability, which was quite uplifiting – and in practical terms, of course, there was rarely any need to waste time and energy looking for ways round boggy bits: I just ploughed on through.
I have since used the Amphibians a couple more times with complete success. This is not the outcome I expected but the results speak for themselves. This, therefore, is the combination I am going to use next month, thereby avoiding the risks involved with new boots, which was another option I considered. But what if the liners get damaged or stop working for some other reason? One then ends up with the default position, which is …
Don’t Bother
As already remarked, until relatively recently nobody would have tried to maintain dry feet because the necessary technology didn’t exist. That didn’t stop people from enjoying the mountains and other wild places. They may, however, have suffered from some discomfort, possibly worse if wetness was followed by extreme cold. More commonly, though, wet feet can mean chafing and blisters, which can in turn result in more than just a little discomfort.
Why does this occur? Wet sox become compressed, so they do not support the foot so well, allowing it to move inside the boot. At the same time they may crumple, creating pressure points. And wet skin is more susceptible to damage.
At the risk of stating the blindingly obvious, feet are a very personal thing. Some people only have to look at a hill to break out in blisters; others seem to have cast iron appendages. My own experience is that I’ve had relatively little trouble, over the years, and when I have had a problem I’ve dealt with it, more or less successfully, by one of two means. One is to use plasters (or, rather, dressing strip, which is much more flexible) to protect raw spots. This doesn’t always work since plasters don’t readily stay stuck to wet skin. My main weapon, therefore, is deer tallow, a soft wax which acts as a soothing lubricant which can readily and effectively be applied to an area which is actually or potentially affected by chafe. It works for me and is less messy than some of the compounds recommended by others. I’ve been using the same tube for years but I am delighted to have recently found a new supplier, since it isn’t very readily available. Armed with an extra tube, then, I’ll be prepared to face the worst even if the Amphibians let me down.
Bob the Backpacker, November 2009
A few people have enquired what sort of gear I’ll be using on the trip, so here’s a fairly comprehensive list. Most of this is tried and tested, with the exception of my footwear choice, which is a calculated experiment this time around. As time has gone on I’ve made more and more concessions to “lightweight”, but with the focus always on stuff that’s going to keep me as comfortable as possible. I’ve never been one for expensive featherweight misery myself. As Gordon Brown might put it, winter in the North West Highlands is no place for novice equipment.
Hilleberg Akto Tent
Vargo titanium pegs
PH Designs Minim Sleeping bag - officially rated to -11 but I have used it comfortably down to -18 with clothes and a silk liner
Thermarest NeoAir
Lowe Alpine TFX Expedition 75+20
OMM Trio Chest Pouch
Paramo Aspira Smock
Paramo Aspira Salopettes
Mammut Base jump pants
Chocolate Fish Taranaki merino base layers (top and long johns)
PH Designs Minim down gilet
PH Designs Sigma pullover
Wigwam silk/merino/nylon socks - fast drying
Rocky goretex waterproof socks
Mountain Hardwear gaiters
Montrail Hardrock Mid boots - very light and (hopefully) fast drying to combat the effect of multiple river crossings
Rab Power Stretch Gloves
MountainEquipment Gore Tex over mitts
Mountain Equipment neck gaiter
Haglofs powerstretch beanie
Jetboil stove and spare canister
Be well expedition rations (freeze dried)
Stoats porridge bars
Snickers
Assorted nuts
Beef jerky
Honey Stinger energy chews & energy gels - handy for keeping going when the weather is too foul to stop
Silva compass & spare
Canon Powershot G9 camera
Basic first aid kit
Mini toilet trowel
Platypus 3L hydration system
1L Nalgene bottle - doubles as a hot water bottle
Waterproof matches
Exped dry bags
Kahtoola lightweight crampons
Leki retractable trek pole
Garmin Etrex H GPS
iPhone
A good book
Diary - for keeping route notes
Laminated A4 route sections
Ortlieb A4 Map case
It’s taken a while, but here’s the route we’ll be taking this Christmas. On the face of it, it looks too easy, but given the shortage of daylight, the true wilderness conditions and the likelihood of terrible weather, this is much more achievable than last year’s route.
Bothies have been chosen where possible to safeguard against the elements. If we get good conditions, we’ll camp instead and the route may alter.
So here it is, it’s not perfect, you may completely disagree with some of the choices, but that’s the beauty of the trail. It’s your choice…there are no markers telling you where to go next.
The 2009/10 route (day, start, destination, overnight, dist. miles, dist. km, ascent)
Day 1: Achnashellach – Easan Dorcha (bothy) 3½M 6k 400m
Day 2: Easan Dorcha – Heights of Kinlochewe (bothy or camp) 12M 19k
Day 3: Heights of Kinlochewe – Shenavall (bothy) 13M 21k 400m
Day 4: Shenavall – Ullapool (B&B) 10M 16k 700m track + 8M 13k road
Day 5: Rest day, Ullapool
Day 6: Ullapool – Knockdamph (bothy) 11½M 19k 300m
Day 7: Knockdamph – Beyond Oykel Bridge (camp) 12½M 20k
Day 8: Beyond Oykel Bridge – Well beyond Loch Ailsh (camp) 9M 15k 400m
Day 9: Well beyond Loch Ailsh – Glencoul (bothy) 11M 18k 500m
Day 10: Glencoul – Achfary (camp) 13M 21k 600m
Day 11 : Achfary – Kinlochbervie (hotel) 13M 21k 200m
Day 12: Rest day, Kinlochbervie
Day 13: Kinlochbervie – Strathchailleach (bothy) 8½M 14k 200m
Day 14: Strathchailleach – Cape Wrath (camp) 6½M 11k 200m
Day 15: C Wrath – Strathchailleach (bothy) 6½M 11k 200m
Day 16: Strathchailleach – Kinlochbervie (hotel) 8½M 14k 200m
Interesting blog post about an expedition between Ullapool and Kinlochewe in midwinter, experimenting with various bits of ultralight gear. Some of the kit mentioned I’m not familiar with but it’s an interesting read and the general feeling seems to be that winter in Scotland isn’t the time to be mucking about with untried kit, which puts an interesting perspective on my boot choice…
A big thank you to those kindly folks at Paramo who have agreed to reproof my Aspira Smock and repair a small rip in the crotch of my salopettes (don’t ask!) free of charge.
I’ve already made my views clear on how good Paramo kit is at dealing with the very worst conditions and it’s nice to find a company that is also so pleasant to deal with.
My day job is in marketing and I have to say I’m impressed with Paramo’s approach - “make great kit and leave customers to spread the word” (pretty much). I’m not alone in thinking this.
Watch out for a write up of the trip in a Paramo brochure in the New Year.
In the meantime, I’ve been out on my mountain bike cross-training like mad and running around dark parks with the British Military Fitness lot again. My postman has been arriving laden down with some rather fantastic silk/merino Wigwam socks and some lightweight new Montrail Hardrock Mid boots and Rocky Gore Tex socks from the US of A.
I’ve also been taste-testing meals and have settled on a mixture of Wayfarer (reliable, familiar, but rather heavy), Expedition Foods (some nice freeze dried options) and Be Well (the best of the bunch).
Fundraising efforts are picking up and we’re having a party in Bristol if you fancy swinging by (details here: http://tweetvite.com/event/bristolparty)
And finally, I promise to get round to posting the revised route from Strathcarron to the Cape very shortly…All systems go.
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