Cape Wrath Trail in Winter

Midwinter won’t be everyone’s ideal choice of season for a 200 mile stroll from Fort William to Cape Wrath, I realise that. However, Scotland can be a strange place for weather to say the least. When I was in Knoydart in April, it was sunnier than Nice.

Summer in the highlands can bring beautiful weather, but it can also be as bad as winter at times. You also have the midges to contend with. Anyone who has dealt with a full-fanged cloud of Scottish midges in mid summer will truly appreciate what a blessing it will be not to be bothered with them in winter. Give me snow over midge any day.

My route (see previous posts) was therefore designed for winter, with the knowledge that not much will be open. As one of the purposes of this blog is to try to draw together information about the Cape Wrath Trail, listed below are some of the main stopping points and some of the accommodation on offer, should you choose to go in summer. Most of this will be closed in winter, where places are open, this is stated.

These are just suggestions, by no means exhaustive and won’t match everybody’s route. They are intended as a starting point and in many cases based on positive personal experiences. Other accommodation options can also be found elsewhere not least our old friend Google or its new fangled rival Cuil.

Fort William
Caledonian Sleeper - a nice way to arrive from London
Torlinnhe Guest House - lovely B&B just outside Fort William
Camusnagaul ferry - from Fort William to the start of your journey in Ardgour. Unless like me you’re cheating and starting in…

Glenfinnan
The Prince’s House Hotel - lovely people and great food
Glenfinnan Sleeping Car - kip in a parked train at the station!
Corryhully Bothy - a “luxury” bothy with electricity and everything

A’Chuil Bothy - Glendessary between Glenfinnan and Knoydart
Sourlies Bothy - Edge of Knoydart en route to Barrisdale, contender for best bothy location

Barrisdale - bothy, campsite and cottage
Kinlochhourn Farm - self-catering accomodation

Shiel Bridge
Kintail Lodge - hotel and bunkhouse
Cluanie Inn - walker friendly
Shiel Bridge Campsite - basic
Suardalan Bothy - outside Shiel Bridge
Shiel Bridge has a petrol station with a well-stocked shop

Killian - Whitefalls retreat bunkhouse just outside Killian

Strathcarron
Strathcarron Hotel - open all year round
Lochcarron Hotel - just outside Stathcarron

Achnashellach - Gerry’s hostel
Easan Dorcha Bothy - very small

Kinlochewe
Taggan campsite - free
Kinlochewe Hotel - has bunkhouse
Kinlochewe has a village shop for re-supply

Dundonnell
Shenavall Bothy - near Dundonnell
Badrallach B&B and campsite
Dundonnell Hotel

Ullapool
Royal Hotel
Westlea Guest House
…and many more. Ullapool will feel like Las Vegas after your journey so far

Knockdamph Bothy

Oykel Bridge Hotel

Inchnadamph
Inchnadamph hotel
Glencoul Bothy

Kylesku
Kylesku Hotel
Newton Lodge Hotel

Rhiconich Hotel

Kinlochbervie
Kinlochbervie Hotel - very helpful, open all year
Old School - Inshegra, nr Kinlochbervie

Kervaig Bothy - near Sandwood Bay en route to the cape

Cape Wrath
No accommodation here, if you’re staying I hope you packed a tent. Camping in the lee of the lighthouse may be a good plan to escape the Atlantic gales. It doesn’t get much more out there than this.

The final leg of the Cape Wrath Trail looks to be one of the hardest. 20 odd miles of slog across trackless terrain, plenty of river crossings and the North Atlantic undoubtedly throwing its worst at you over the cliffs to your West.

With the end in sight and the delights of Sandwood Bay along the way, it is a day you’ll long remember, especially when the cape lighthouse finally hoves into view across the bleak peat.

There is nothing at Cape Wrath other than an unmanned lighthouse. In summer, a minibus and ferry crossing bring visitors to the cape and provide walkers with a handy means of escape to Durness without the need to return to Kinlochbervie.

Durness has a range of accommodation and also bus services back to Lairg direct or via Kinlochbervie. Lairg is on the train line to Inverness.

Outside peak season there is no alternative but to retreat to Kinlochbervie, after an overnight camp at the cape. The postbus from Durness calls in at Kinlochbervie at 09:00 and goes onwards to meet the Inverness train at Lairg.