Despite a somewhat curtailed trip (this time), I thought I’d at least post an up to date description for the first couple of days and then add to it when I get back to the trail later this year.
My route was based around the one outlined in North to the Cape by Denis Brooke and Phil Hinchcliffe which proceeds up Glenfinnan. As the Camusnagaul ferry is seasonal, I opted to start my journey in Glenfinnan rather than Fort William, but a good first day would otherwise take you from Camusnagaul around Loch Eil (either “up and over” or using the not too busy A861 road that hugs the lochside). The first night could be spent either at the very pleasant Prince’s House Hotel in Glenfinnan or at the Corryhully bothy a few km up the glen.
Like me, you’ll probably be carrying a fair bit of food at this stage, so whilst the next day to A’Chuil bothy may look shortish, it’s a good way to ease yourself into the trail. Going is good as you make your way up Glenfinnan, before a steepish drag up to the pass between Streap and Sgurr Thuilm.
Although the spot height here is only 471m, in winter you’re likely to find snow and the first few hundred metres of descent into Gleann Cuirnean is distinctly tricky. On the OS map the path is marked to the West of the stream, but you’ll probably have to cross after a couple of km due to bank erosion. I found it better to stick to the East as the bridge at 969907 is on this side of the river.
Once you’ve crossed the bridge, walk to the fence line and about 100m to the East you will pick up a path through the woods up to the metalled track that leads in a long loop through the woods to A’Chuil bothy (944924). The bothy is spacious, with two rooms and fireplaces, although surrounded by deep bog.
The route in North to the Cape suggests the next night as a wild camp up the Carnach river. However, in Winter the going is sufficiently rough to make a stop at Sourlies sensible. In summer I’d be tempted to push on to the bothy Barisdale, although this would make for a long, tough second day.
Leaving A’Chuil is straightforward enough to do in the dark with a headtorch (in winter) and the metalled track continues for several km before crossing the river Dessary via a bridge at 930935. At this stage the main path continues to follow the river and up through the forest. However, argocat machinery and logging have made this path extremely boggy and almost impassable. A better option is, having crossed the river, to head due North until you clear the woods, joining the path that comes from Upper Glendessary.
From here on the going is very rough. The path comes and goes and conditions underfoot are very sloshy. Things become a bit clearer once you reach Lochan a Mhaim, with a decent river crossing at 890945. The path winding down to Sourlies bothy is steep in places and you’ll definitely be glad to see the bothy, even if it’s only for a late lunch.
Progress from Sourlies is dependent on the state of the tide. At low tide you’ll be able to skirt along the edge of Loch Nevis before heading across the flats to a rickety bridge before Carnoch. At high tide it’s a rough scramble over the headland instead. The going before and immediately after Carnoch is very rough with deep bogs (I went in up to my waist at one stage), making progress slow, tiring and difficult. Things get better as you head up the glen on a reasonably well defined path.
Well, that’s a start anyway, more to follow.
6 months ago
![I’ve been doing a lot of thinking since I had to abort my attempt last Christmas to complete the Cape Wrath Trail. Was it too ambitious to attempt it at that time of year? Should I just settle for doing it in summer? Should I give up altogether?
Whilst up in Knoydart last week, surrounded by that wildest of country I was reminded of why I had attempted it all in the first place.
So I’ve decided to give it another go this winter. Doing it at that time of year was always part of the challenge for me, and last year’s experience (and my current progress towards the Mountain Leader qualification) have taught me an immense amount, including how to survive -15 degree temperatures and 120mph winds.
I’ll be starting in Strathcarron this time round (having done the rest in the interim) and this time I’ve decided to try and raise some funds for a brilliant charity I once had the priviledge of working for called Vitalise, having been completely inspired by the incredible fundraising feats of John Dunbavin.
So the mission is well and truly back on. If anybody fancies joining me then drop me a line at iain[dot]harper[at]gmail[dot]com - it’ll be a trip to remember that’s for sure.](http://1.media.tumblr.com/A558UATThnily6kfE5gR4nGlo1_500.jpg)
